North York Moors Walks: Ancient Woodlands and Scenic Paths

A Guide to Unmissable North York Moors Walks and Hikes

Explore stunning North York Moors walks and trails in this diverse and scenic national park. Covering 554 square miles, the North York Moors is characterised by its dramatic coastal cliffs to the east, the steep slopes of the Cleveland Hills to the west and north, and the picturesque Vale of Pickering to the south. Established as a national park in 1952, it features a variety of landscapes, from expansive heather moorland and dense forests to unique landforms shaped by the last ice age. Visit the official website to read more about this amazing place.

Below, I highlight three of my favourite North York Moors walks, each offering a unique adventure. Remember, these are just a few of the many trails available in this beautiful region. For a comprehensive list, continue scrolling down the page.

North York Moors Walks: My Top Three

One of my favourite North York Moors walks is the Hole of Horcum circular. This trail begins at Saltergate and takes you through the breathtaking scenery of the Hole of Horcum, also known as the ‘Devil’s Punchbowl.’ The route offers stunning views of this natural amphitheatre and provides a fascinating insight into the area’s geological history. The trek continues along the Tabular Hills Walk, featuring a mix of heather moorland and countryside paths, before passing through the picturesque village of Levisham and returning via the lush valley of Horcum Slack. The diverse terrain and spectacular vistas make this walk a must-see for any visitor.

Another top choice from my collection of North York Moors walks is the Grosmont walk, perfect for history enthusiasts and walkers alike. Starting in the quaint village of Grosmont, this walk meanders through a variety of landscapes, including serene woodlands, open moorland, and disused, historic railway lines. The trail starts with a stroll through Doctors Wood, then ascends to Dale End and crosses open countryside. A key highlight of this walk is the visit to the charming Goathland Railway Station, a notable destination for fans of the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. The route also includes a pause at the Mallyan Spout waterfall, adding a refreshing natural element to the journey. The Grosmont walk combines historical intrigue with natural beauty, making it a delightful outing.

The Rosedale Railway walk is my third top pick of North York Moors walks, offering a fascinating journey through the area’s industrial past. This walk starts at the Lion Inn on Blakey Ridge and follows the historic Rosedale Railway trackbed. The path provides a gentle introduction along the valley’s western edge and passes significant historical sites, such as the impressive Iron Kilns at Rosedale East Mines. These remnants of the once-thriving ironstone industry stand as silent monuments to the past. The walk continues through picturesque farmland and up challenging inclines, offering stunning panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. The combination of historical landmarks and scenic vistas makes this walk a unique excursion.

These three North York Moors walks showcase just a fraction of the incredible adventures available in this beautiful region. Whether you’re seeking challenging hikes, historical discovery, or peaceful nature walks, the North York Moors has a trail to suit every preference. For more detailed descriptions and a wider selection of routes, please explore the full list below.

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Stunning Walks in the North York Moors

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About the North York Moors

The North York Moors is an upland area in north-eastern Yorkshire. It boasts one of the largest expanses of heather moorland in the United Kingdom. This area was designated as a National Park in 1952, covering 554 square miles (1435 square kilometres) with a population of 23,380. The North York Moors National Park Authority, based in Helmsley, administers the park.

North York Moors Location and Roads

To the east, the impressive cliffs of the North Sea coast define the area. The northern and western boundaries are marked by the steep scarp slopes of the Cleveland Hills and Hambleton Hills, which edge the Tees lowlands and the Vale of Mowbray, respectively. The south is bordered by the Tabular Hills and the Vale of Pickering.

Several roads cross the North York Moors from north to south. In the east, the A171 connects Whitby and Scarborough. Further inland, the A169 runs between Pickering and Whitby. Centrally, a minor road from the A170 at Keldholme passes through Castleton and joins the A171, which links Whitby and Guisborough. The B1257, the most westerly route, connects Helmsley to Stokesley. The A170 from Thirsk to Scarborough marks the southern boundary of the moors.

North York Moors Physical Geography

The North York Moors feature a moorland plateau dissected by deep dales and valleys, often containing cultivated land or woodland. The largest dale is Eskdale, home to the River Esk, which flows from west to east, emptying into the North Sea at Whitby. The Cleveland Hills rise north of Eskdale. At Eskdale’s western end, the valley splits into three smaller dales: Westerdale (the upper valley of the River Esk), Baysdale, and Commondale. The southern side of Eskdale has several side dales, including Danby Dale, Little Fryup Dale, Great Fryup Dale, Glaisdale, and the Goathland valley. Kildale, west of Commondale, is drained by the River Leven, which flows west to join the River Tees.

On the south side of the moorland, several dales drain into tributaries of the River Derwent. The westernmost dale is Rye Dale, with the Hambleton Hills rising to the west. Bilsdale, a side dale of Rye Dale, is east of Bransdale, Farndale, Rosedale, and Newton Dale, which cut into the moorland. The south-east features the narrow valleys of the upper reaches of the Derwent and its tributaries. About 23% of the North York Moors is covered by woodland, mainly in the south-west and south-east.

North York Moors Geology

The geology of the North York Moors is primarily composed of rocks from the Jurassic period, formed 205 to 142 million years ago. These rocks were laid down in subtropical seas, resulting in a variety of rock types from shales to sandstones and limestones. The Yorkshire coast, from Staithes to Filey, showcases these marine and deltaic deposits.

Lower Jurassic

Shales, clays, thin limestones, and sandstones were deposited in a shallow sea at the beginning of the Jurassic period. These include ironstone layers and alum-bearing rocks.

Middle Jurassic

Gradual uplift led to mudstone and sandstone deposits on a low-lying coastal plain. Calcareous rocks with marine fossils, known as the Ravenscar Group, were occasionally deposited during sea inundations.

Upper Jurassic

The land sank beneath the sea, leading to the deposition of calcareous sandstones and limestones, known as the Corallian rocks, in the Tabular Hills. The Kimmeridge Clay, underlying the Vale of Pickering, is not exposed at the surface.

About 30 million years ago, the land was uplifted and tilted southwards, exposing older rocks in the north, such as the shales and ironstones on the northern scarp of the moors and Cleveland Hills. Sandstones form the high moorland, while the youngest limestone layers create the Tabular Hills. Rivers in the dales have exposed older rocks, such as shales, ironstone, and sandstone, as seen in Rosedale.

During the Quaternary period, glaciers shaped the landscape. The most recent glaciation, the Devensian, ended around 11,000 years ago. The higher parts of the North York Moors were not covered by ice sheets, but glaciers flowed southwards. Meltwater carved deep valleys, such as Newtondale and the Kirkham gorge, and deposited boulder clay, altering the course of the River Derwent.

North York Moors Economy

The economy of the North York Moors relies on agriculture, tourism, and entertainment.

Agriculture

For over a thousand years, agriculture has been the backbone of the local economy. The picturesque rural landscape, which attracts millions of visitors annually, has been shaped and maintained by generations of farmers. According to the 1996 Agricultural Census, 2913 people worked on 1342 farms, with sheep and cattle being the primary sources of income. The right to graze sheep on open moorland is vital for the economic viability of many farms. Despite various environmental schemes to support farmers, the viability of hill farming remains uncertain. Grouse shooting and farming share the use of moorland. In the richer farmland across the southern limestone belt, arable and mixed farming are common, with crops like barley, wheat, oilseed rape, potatoes, and sugar beets. Intensive pig and poultry production also occurs.

Tourism

Outdoor pursuits, particularly North York Moors walks, draw many visitors to the area. The National Park has nearly 1400 miles (2300 kilometres) of public rights of way. Open moorland areas are accessible under the Countryside and Rights of Way Act 2000. Popular trails include the Cleveland Way, circling the moors and featuring a coastal section, and the Lyke Wake Walk, crossing the park’s heart. The White Rose Way, a long-distance path from Leeds to Scarborough, also traverses the area.

Cycling, mountain biking, and horse-riding are popular activities, with a circular long-distance bridle route available. Several gliding clubs use the steep escarpments around the park. In late 2020, the National Park was designated an International Dark Sky Reserve, recognised for its low light pollution and excellent conditions for stargazing.

The park has two visitor centres offering tourist information and exhibitions: Sutton Bank and The Moors National Park Centre in Danby.

Entertainment

The North York Moors’ timeless landscapes have featured in numerous British television programmes and films. The series Heartbeat and scenes of Hogsmeade Station from the Harry Potter movies were filmed in Goathland. The film version of Downton Abbey shot scenes at the Pickering station of the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. Recent films like The Runaways (2020), The Secret Garden (2020), and Miss Willoughby and the Haunted Bookshop (2020) also featured the park.

Dalby Forest hosts various entertainment events throughout the year, including outdoor concerts. North York Moors walks are a common activity in these settings, with visitors exploring the scenic and historical landscapes.

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