Rosedale Abbey Walk: Enjoy Lastingham and the Rosedale Valley

Journey Through the North York Moors with the Rosedale Abbey Walk

Start your Rosedale Abbey walk by parking near the village green, right in the heart of Rosedale Abbey. From here, head up the road, passing the Abbey Tea Room and Abbey Stores on your left. The road soon curves to the left. As you reach the junction with the main road, take the smaller road to your right, signposted for Thorgill. This is the path leading up to Rosedale Chimney Bank. Cross the bridge over the River Seven and continue uphill along Gill Lane, which climbs steeply for a short stretch.

After about a quarter of a mile, turn left into the White Horse Farm Inn. Walk past the inn, keeping it on your right, and follow the well-maintained stone trail that leads south-east. After about a mile, you’ll come to the entrance of Hollins Farm. Here, take the grassy bridleway to your right and start ascending the hill. At the top, you’ll encounter a fork in the path—stay on the left-hand path, keeping the dry stone wall on your left as you continue.

For the next mile, your Rosedale Abbey walk follows this easy-to-navigate path, which is marked by North York Moors bridleway signs. Although the direction gradually shifts to the south, the trail remains clear. Stay on the main path for another mile and a half, resisting any temptations to veer right about halfway along. You’ll soon come to a small wooded area, enclosed by a dry stone wall.

Keep walking along the edge of the wood, with High Askew on your left. The stone track eventually transitions into a tarmac road. Follow this road for about a third of a mile until you see some gates ahead. Just before the gates, turn right and follow the path onto the moorland. The dry stone wall will once again be on your left as you make your way around the field. The trail descends into a shallow valley where you’ll cross Tranmire Beck using a ford. Then, follow the path as it ascends out of the valley.

Continue along this path, keeping the dry stone wall on your left. The route heads west for about half a mile before widening into a broader track. You’ll eventually reach a large marker stone and a bench, providing a perfect spot for a short rest. From here, bear left onto the road known as High Street, which leads south into the picturesque village of Lastingham.

Take time to explore Lastingham, with its fascinating church and crypt. When you’re ready to leave, retrace your steps along High Street, back to the large marker stone. From here, continue straight ahead, keeping the marker stone on your right. The trail is signposted for Rosedale and heads north across the open expanse of Spaunton Moor. The stone track is easy to follow and offers stunning views as you walk for roughly two miles towards Ana Cross.

Once you reach Ana Cross, continue north on the track for another half a mile until you reach the road at the top of Rosedale Chimney Bank. Turn right and follow the road all the way down, leading you back to Rosedale Abbey.

Rosedale Abbey is an excellent starting point for this walk, with plenty to see in the village itself. As you make your way along the path on the east side of Spaunton Moor, you’ll enjoy stunning views into the Rosedale Valley. The visit to Lastingham offers a fascinating stop, with its historic church and intriguing crypt. The return journey across the exposed moorland of Spaunton Moor is truly exhilarating, offering wide open spaces and sweeping landscapes that capture the rugged beauty of the North York Moors. This Rosedale Abbey walk combines a variety of scenery, from charming villages to expansive moors, making it a memorable route.

Rosedale Abbey Walk: Distance, Duration, Statistics

Recommended Ordnance Survey Map

The best map to use on this walk is the Ordnance Survey map of the North York Moors Western Area, reference OS Explorer OL26, scale 1:25,000. It clearly displays footpaths, rights of way, open access land and vegetation on the ground, making it ideal for walking, running and hiking. The map can be purchased from Amazon in either a standard, paper version or a weatherproof, laminated version, as shown below.

About Rosedale Abbey

Rosedale Abbey, located in the Ryedale district of North Yorkshire, is a village steeped in history. Despite its name, the village was once home to a Cistercian priory rather than an abbey. For those embarking on this Rosedale Abbey walk, the historic site offers a fascinating glimpse into the region’s rich past.

The Origins of Rosedale Abbey Priory

A Cistercian priory once stood at the heart of what is now the village. Today, walkers on this Rosedale Abbey walk can still see a few remnants, including a staircase turret, a sundial, and a single stone pillar. Some headstones, believed to belong to nuns, have also been discovered, though their original placement is uncertain. Founded in 1158 or earlier, the priory housed a small group of nuns who were among the first to farm sheep commercially in the region. This activity was a typical Cistercian practice, as the order sought to live ‘far from the concourse of men’. As you explore this area on this Rosedale Abbey walk, you’ll encounter these historical traces.

Life at Rosedale Abbey Priory

Unlike nearby Fountains Abbey and Rievaulx Abbey, little is known about Rosedale Priory. The nuns, unlike their male counterparts, probably did not leave extensive written records. Furthermore, the Cistercians were known for their reluctance to fully include women in their order. This left the nuns in a semi-official position, with limited ties to the wider Cistercian community. Without the formal connections that male abbeys enjoyed, it is difficult to imagine what Rosedale Priory once looked like. Nevertheless, those walking this Rosedale Abbey walk can reflect on this mysterious past.

While some well-finished stonework survives, its exact placement within the priory remains unclear. This chapter of Rosedale’s history is poorly understood, with only a handful of references surviving. One account suggests that the nuns were relocated after a raid by Scots. Another reprimands the nuns for mismanaging finances, urging them not to give away so much aid to the poor that they bankrupt themselves. Other records include warnings not to allow visitors into the dormitory or puppies into the church, as they might disturb services. Although these snippets provide insight into the priory’s daily life, much remains unknown. As you follow the Rosedale Abbey walk, you can imagine what life might have been like for the six to twelve nuns who called this priory home.

The Decline and Legacy of Rosedale Abbey Priory

In 1536, the priory ceased operations due to the Dissolution of the Monasteries. Over time, the buildings decayed, and by the 19th century, they were dismantled. As you stroll through the village during your Rosedale Abbey walk, you’ll notice that much of the priory’s stone was repurposed. A new church was built near the priory site, and many garden walls, sheds, and lintels around the village feature the well-cut stone from the priory. Gothic-style windows are also common, and at least two village churches feature circular windows, an architectural detail typical of Cistercian churches, which were often dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Although these details likely reflect Victorian tastes rather than the original priory, they still add to the unique character of the village.

Rosedale Abbey Walk: My Photos

After leaving the village via Gill Lane, we turn left and pass by the 16th-century White Horse Farm Inn. This charming inn offers a glimpse into the history of the area as we continue our Rosedale Abbey walk.

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The White Horse Farm Inn offers some fantastic views, overlooking the stunning Rosedale valley. This vantage point gives us a perfect introduction to the scenery ahead.

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After passing the White Horse Inn and walking for about a mile, we pass Hollins Farm and join this lovely path. The path follows the north-eastern and eastern edges of Spaunton Moor, with the southern part of the Rosedale valley below us to the left.

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Continuing along the path, we enjoy expansive views to our left. We’re looking in a north-east direction across the valley towards some of the farms situated on Pry Hills Lane. This lane runs along the valley floor and leads into Rosedale Abbey.

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The path itself is delightful, easy to walk along, and a joy to navigate. In summer, the lush vegetation is particularly colourful, making this part of the Rosedale Abbey walk even more enjoyable.

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As we continue, we are treated to lovely views across the valley on our left. The rolling landscape and greenery make this section of the walk especially scenic.

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We’re now about half a mile south-east of Hollins Farm, and the path continues to be pleasant. Although occasionally uneven and rocky, it’s nothing to worry about at all. It’s a friendly and enjoyable path.

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We’re really enjoying this section of our Rosedale Abbey walk. The countryside is beautiful, and the path is lined with ferns, bracken, trees, and other vibrant vegetation, making it an inviting landscape.

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From Hollins Farm, for the first mile or so, the path largely follows a dry stone wall on our left. This natural guide adds a sense of continuity as we walk.

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As we continue along the path near Scugdale, we come across a marker stone with a plaque on the right side of the path. The plaque, set on the weathered stone, is titled ‘Spaunton Estate – Traces of a Bygone Industry’. It provides historical information about the site, indicating that it was once home to a glass furnace. The plaque also mentions that the reconstructed glass furnace can be seen at the Ryedale Folk Museum in the nearby village of Hutton-le-Hole.

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We continue along the path, which gradually changes direction from south-east to south. This subtle shift offers new views of the surrounding landscape.

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Looking to our left in an easterly direction, we experience a lovely scene with Hartoft Bridge Farm nestled in the trees. The farm’s peaceful setting enhances the beauty of this part of the Rosedale Abbey walk.

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Now about 2¼ miles from Hollins Farm, the path widens. We find some rocks to sit on and take a break, enjoying coffee and snacks as we rest and take in the scenery around us.

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We continue on the wider track alongside the dry stone wall in the direction of High Askew. It’s beautiful here, and we’re thoroughly enjoying this part of our Rosedale Abbey walk.

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After passing High Askew, the route drops down into a shallow valley where we cross a ford over Tranmire Beck. From there, we follow the track back up the hillside on the other side of the valley.

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From the ford across Tranmire Beck, we continue our Rosedale Abbey walk heading west. We pass a row of large trees before reaching the road, which will guide us into Lastingham.

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At the top of the road into Lastingham, we come across a large marker stone and an area with a bench. This scenic spot marks the top of the road that leads down into Lastingham.

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This narrow road, leading downhill in a southerly direction, is called High Street. As we walk, we pass the Lastingham Grange Country House Hotel on our left.

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In Lastingham, we pass the lovely Darley Memorial Village Hall. Formerly the village school, this hall now hosts many village events, from coffee mornings to stone carving festivals, keep-fit classes, and historical society lectures. A plaque on the wall reads: ‘To the glory of God and in loving memory of Harriett Louisa Darley, this school was built AD 1885’.

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This view is from the Darley Memorial Village Hall towards the Church of St Mary, Lastingham.

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As we pass The Blacksmiths Arms, we look up at the Church of St Mary, which stands proudly above the village.

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Rosedale Abbey Walk: Village of Lastingham

From the graveyard of the Church of St Mary, we get fantastic views of The Blacksmiths Arms and the village of Lastingham. The village was first mentioned in Bede’s Ecclesiastical History of the English People as Laestinga eu. Its name comes from Old English, combining the personal name Læst with the suffix -ing, meaning ‘descendants’ or ‘tribe’, and ēg, typically meaning ‘island’. In this case, it likely refers to an ‘island’ of good land surrounded by moorland.

Later, the ēg element was replaced by hām, meaning ‘homestead’, a change that occurred in places with monasteries. This form was first recorded in the Domesday Book of 1086 as Lestingham and Lestinaham. The village’s history is closely tied to its religious beginnings. King Ethelwald of Deira founded a monastery here between 651 and 655, intending it to be his burial place.

Bede credits Ethelwald’s chaplain, Caelin, the brother of Cedd, Chad, and Cynibil, with the establishment. Cedd became the first abbot, leading the monastery until his death from the plague in 664. A group of monks from Essex came to mourn him, but all except one died of the same plague. Cedd was initially buried outside the monastery, but his remains were later moved into a stone church built on the site. St Chad, Cedd’s brother, succeeded him as abbot. The monastery became known for its high standards, as shown by one of its monks, Trumbert, who later transferred to Wearmouth-Jarrow and became the scripture tutor of Bede.

While no records mention the destruction of the original Anglo-Saxon monastery by the Danes, an attempt to rebuild the monastery occurred in 1078. St Stephen, prior of Whitby, and a group of monks relocated to Lastingham after a dispute with William de Percy, the abbot of Whitby. With the support of King William I and Berenger de Todeni, the monks were granted land in Lastingham and surrounding areas. However, due to harassment by bandits, they left Lastingham after only eight years and moved to York, where they founded St Mary’s Abbey and annexed the lands of the Lastingham monastery.

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Rosedale Abbey Walk: Church of St Mary, Lastingham

We enter the beautiful Church of St Mary, Lastingham. The church stands on the site of a Catholic monastery founded in 654. The present church, however, dates from the latter part of the 11th century and was converted to an Anglican church during the Reformation. Lastingham has long been an important part of Christian heritage in Northern England and has attracted pilgrims due to its religious significance and rare crypt. The Venerable Bede recorded that monks established a wooden monastery at Lastingham (formerly known as Lastingeau) in 654, with land provided by the King of Deira. St Cedd was the first abbot, and he died of the plague in 664. Initially buried in the open air, St Cedd’s remains were later moved inside a church built around him. This early church, however, was destroyed by Danish invaders over the next 400 years.

After Cedd’s death, his brother, St Chad, briefly became the abbot before moving to Lichfield. The relics of both saints were eventually moved to Lichfield, though it is believed that most of St Cedd’s remains are still at Lastingham. In 1078, William the Conqueror permitted the building of a new church on the site. Benedictine monks from Whitby began the work, but they relocated to York after only ten years, likely due to the remoteness of the area. The church’s Romanesque architecture is notable, and it offers a rare opportunity to see a building with a defined start and end date. It was converted to Anglicanism during the Reformation.

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Rosedale Abbey Walk: St Mary’s Church Crypt

From inside the church, we’re able to visit the crypt, which is amazing. The crypt beneath St Mary’s is a unique architectural feature. Its walls are three feet (0.91 metres) thick, and it is reputed to be the only crypt in England that includes a nave, apse, and side aisles. It is also claimed to be the oldest Norman crypt in the world and the only one with this combination of features. The crypt occupies the same footprint as the church above it and is accessed by a staircase from the nave.

Inside, a square shaft indented with a piscina can be seen. The crypt is supported by four pillars believed to be from before the Norman Conquest. Historians estimate that the crypt has remained unaltered since the time of William the Conqueror. In the 18th century, cock-fighting reportedly took place in the crypt, though it is unclear if the clergy and churchwarden were aware of this. Despite this curious episode, the crypt remains a significant part of Lastingham’s heritage.

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We visit St Cedd’s Well in Lastingham. The inscription on the wooden plaque translates as:

CEDD
Founder of Lastingham Abbey
AD 654
Died AD 664 and is buried in the church on the right side of the altar

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After visiting Lastingham, we head back out of the village on High Street, the same way we came in. At the top of the road, we follow the track on the left-hand side of the marker stone. The stone features an engraved cross-like design with the word ‘LASTINGHAM’. The track leads onto the moorland and is signposted Rosedale. The moorland track heads north across Spaunton Moor.

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After about 1½ miles of walking north across Spaunton Moor, we take care to follow the left fork in the path, as we want to reach Ana Cross, which is just visible on the horizon.

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We approach Ana Cross along an easy-going stone track. The path is smooth, making this stretch enjoyable as we head toward the cross.

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Rosedale Abbey Walk: Ana Cross

We reach Ana Cross, a modern replacement of a medieval wayside cross. The original cross, once known as Ain Howe Cross, stood as a marker along an ancient route between Lastingham and Rosedale Abbey. The current cross, which stands about three metres high, was erected in 1949 after the original cross was moved to St Mary’s Church in Lastingham.

The base of the cross consists of two socket stones joined by iron ties, and it sits atop a prehistoric burial mound—a round barrow dating back to the Late Neolithic period. The prehistoric burial mound, 18 metres in diameter and 1.2 metres high, provides additional historical significance to the site, linking the area to ancient burial practices. The site is listed as a Scheduled Monument.

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As we walk down Rosedale Chimney Bank, we take the opportunity to sit on a bench and enjoy the views of the Rosedale valley. Rosedale Chimney Bank is surprisingly steep, and when we reach the bottom, we notice a sign indicating that it has a 1 in 3 gradient.

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We’re nearly at the end of our Rosedale Abbey walk as we head back into the village down the road known as Rosedale Chimney Bank.

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Rosedale Chimney Bank eventually becomes Gill Lane, and we pass the White Horse Farm Inn where we were earlier in the day, almost completing our Rosedale Abbey walk.

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